Siena, Italy - A Step Back into Medieval Europe

Day 9 - Siena, Italy. Yes, that brick-colored Crayon in your box was named for the color of the soil/bricks here. Never did we imagine how we would be impacted by our visit to Siena, which was one of the most important cities in medievil Europe.

Though founded much earlier, Siena prospered when the main road travelled by pilgrims and tradesman from Northern Europe to Rome started providing a constant stream of people resulting in a valuable source of income. The Republic of Siena thrived for over four hundred years, from the 1100's until 1555. It was a major economic center and was the main political, economic, and artistic rival of its neighboring city of Florence (which conquered Siena in 1555...and that still stings residents of Siena today!).

We did a 3-hour walking tour with a private guide when we arrived by train in the afternoon. Siena is a walled city that sits on and covers three hilltops. Guess what that means?! Lots of very steep roads and stairs! We definitely got a workout exploring this city!

According to our guide, by the time we were done, we had seen about 80% of the historic sites of the city. Those sites included some incredible highlights, but it was the culture of Siena that really took hold of us. More on that soon!

The Basilica of San Domenico was the first stop on our tour. Construction began in 1226–1265, but it was enlarged in the 14th century resulting in the Gothic appearance it has now. Built as a church for the poor who were outside the city walls at the time, this church is made of bricks (locally sourced Siena red bricks, of course) and wooden trusses (a much less expensive form of construction at the time). They even have a very important relic in this Basilica...the head of Saint Catherine (no photos, for obvious reasons of respect) who was born here in Siena.

Yes, we toured a few more churches here in Siena. You'd think we would get tired of this (and, by now, we do kind of a collective groan before entering a new church) but we never cease to be amazed at the individuality of each one, and their incredible works of art! Because the written language wasn't prevalent in the 1100-1500's, paintings, frescoes, statues and other beautiful works of art were used to tell the stories of the Bible to the parishioners. The best artists of the day were sought after and commissioned to produce the art. The result now is really not only the architectural beauty of the churches, but a veritable art gallery in each one!

The Siena Cathedral (Duomo), begun in the 12th century, is a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque–Gothic architecture. Its main façade was completed in 1380. Works of art by Michealangelo and other greats of the time are found in this beautiful cathedral.

Pictured above, from upper left and moving clockwise: the ceiling of the dome, created to show the starlit sky, using gold and lapis-lazuli; the four statues on the columns were created by Michaelangelo, shortly after he created The David; the ordination of a new Pope (Siena produced two Popes); and the amazing "graffiti" (inlaid marble) on the floors, which is among the most elaborate in Italy.

The most impressive thing to us about Siena was that it still retains a neighborhood-centric culture from medieval times. Each neighborhood (contrada) is represented by an animal or mascot and has its own boundary and distinct identity (compare it to individual High Schools or Colleges in the United States). Ward rivalries are palpable, and most rampant during the annual horse race (Palio) that takes place in the Piazza del Campo (basically their Town Square). Google the Palio...it's an amazing event!! There are 17 contrada: Aquila, Bruco, Chiocciola, Civetta, Drago, Giraffa, Istrice, Leocorno, Lupa, Nicchio, Oca, Onda, Pantera, Selva, Tartuca, Torre, Valdimontone. You can tell which contrada you are in by which flags are flying, the color of the street lamps, and tile markings on the walls.

The contrada are held together by their histories, and the emotions and sense of civic pride of the residents. Every important event – baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals – is celebrated only within one's own contrada. Every contrada has its own museum, church, fountain and baptismal font, motto, allied contrada (only Oca and Lupa have no allies) and adversary contrada, typically a neighbor (only four, Bruco, Drago, Giraffa and Selva, have no declared adversaries).

The contradas organize all sorts of events each year, and it's typical for them to take turns parading through the city. Each contrada has 2,000-3,000 people. We were extraordinarily lucky to get to see the Drago contrada's parade around the Piazza de Campo after we ate dinner! It was particularly rousing and boastful as their horse won the famed Palio di Siena this year, so they have bragging rights until the race next year. Oh man, do they rub it in!! There were at least 300 people in the parade, with drummers, flag bears and regular neighborhood folks caped in their contrada flag, which is a flying dragon.

It was truly a magical end to a day spent walking into the heart of several contradas, learning the cultural significance of them to this city, and realizing how truly unique this city is because of their existence!

If you visit Siena, we HIGHLY recommend that you take a walking tour (we can recommend a guide) so that you can get a deeper sense of the city than you would on your own!

Transfers: From Siena Train Station to Hotel by local Taxi

Hotel: Athena Hotel Siena

Tour: Siena Walking Tour by Tours by Locals, Emma Molignoni (HIGHLY recommend)

Step Count: 13,343 steps or 6.65 miles